THIS WILL INSTALL THE FRONT/REAR TRUNNION RIVETS AND CENTER SUPPORTS.
It will not install the trigger guard rivets.
Are you ready for a completely new riveting tool? This is based on
Plinker's original riveting jig as well as a modification from another
AK gunsmith and upgraded with my own special touches.
The large round ram and the ram arm are made from 4140 alloy steel
and heat treated. There is only one ram that presses the rear of the
rivet and it is captured so it won't pivot left or right. The ram will
reach the rear rivet on the underfolder/sidefolder trunnions.
I have designed the rivet head supports and dimpling tools after the
parts made in the aircraft industry. The dimple tool is stepped so that
if you press it in too much it won't leave any marks that will be
visible after installing the swell neck rivet.
The rivet support is rounded off to keep from having a dent put into
the receiver from using small rectangle blocks with indentions for
rivets. There will only be one size made for the rivets that I sell.
When I put these up for sale I will offer rivets at a discount when you
buy the jig.
THIS WILL INSTALL THE FRONT/REAR TRUNNION RIVETS AND CENTER SUPPORTS. It will not install the trigger guard rivets.
The picture below shows the long riveting part of the new jig. This
uses the same basic design as Plinker's long rivet jig. The rivet
centering tools and head forming tools are basically the same, but will
be modified slightly. With this tool you can install the long rivet on
the front of the Yugo/RPK bulged front trunnions. It will even let you
look at the head as it's being formed so you can see what it looks like
before removing the receiver from the jig. The key to having a nice
rivet head is centering the ram over the rivet before forming the head.
The long rivet jig is the best way to set the center support rivet.
I've tried it with the regular jigs before and it has a tendency to
crush the rails around the center support. The way this tool works it
focuses all of the energy in a straight line down into the rivet and
will consistently work better than any other method. It may not be as
fast as just hitting the rivet with a hammer, but it will form a much
nicer rivet head.